In Ghana, Akwaaba isn’t just a mere formality

Even for a first time visitor, it’s hard not to be disarmed by the warmth behind the greeting, Akwaaba -a word denoting welcome in Akan, a Ghana dialect. There is an almost instant realisation, that one is indeed visiting a country that not only loves to showcase its hospitality to the world but is proud of its culture and heritage as well.

Arriving at the Kwame Nkrumah Airport, Accra, the hassle-free verification of travel documents is handled by courteous immigration personnel who exchange banters with visitors, asking a few questions in the process from the relevant to the mundane, obviously in a bid to make them feel at home.

Although it was the second time I was visiting the country which used to be known as “Gold Coast” (a colonial legacy that drew inspiration from the huge gold deposits prior to its independence), the experience was no less splendid. On this occasion, I was attending the Summit on Global Public Relations along with three other colleagues in the council. The summit was held at the prestigious Movenpick Hotel, a five-star hotel that sits on an expansive land in the heart of Accra, lending a picturesque backdrop to the event.

A particularly striking inclination about Ghanaians is their love for political discourse. And the ever-smiling taxi driver who took us to High Gate Hotel where we sought accommodation for the three-day summit was no exception. However, once he knew that we were Nigerians, he swiftly changed the topic to football boasting of how Ghana had always got the better of Nigeria in football competitions.

“Oh Charlie! You know the ‘Black Stars’ (referring to the Ghanaian national team) will always beat the ‘Super Eagles’ because football is made in Ghana,” he says with a grin laced with pride and patriotism.

That the average Ghanaian is courteous and unassuming is merely stating the obvious. Irrespective of their status in the society, there is a hint of joy and contentment on the face of folks on the street despite the socio-economic problems that they grapple with every day.

Kwame, the guest relations officer who received us as we arrived at the hotel, was just as chatty as the taxi driver. “Unlike us, you Nigerians have petro-dollars. But here in Ghana we have to be nice and polite to our visitors because tourism still contributes a lot to our economy,” he said in that unmistakable Ghanaian accent.

When I reminded him that the price of oil had been on a consistent decline thus leading to loss of revenue for my country, he interjected: “Sure, but a lot of Nigerians are here in Ghana doing business and repatriating their proceeds.”

Curious, the next day after the summit, I sought to find out if what Kwame said was true. I reliably gathered that a visit to the popular Makola (which sounds like Mokuola Market in Ibadan) would convince me.

Makola Market, a renowned market place and shopping district in the centre of the capital, was constructed in 1924. The market which shares similarities with Idumota and Balogun on Lagos Island) is the main wholesale and retail market place in Accra. Also known as 31 December market, it is located next to Kwame Nkrumah Park.

While haggling over the price of a piece of “Kente,” a popular Ghanaian fabric, I was jolted when I overheard a trader behind me yelling out in Igbo: “Nwanne! Bia ka’belugi ego” (which loosely translates to, “Brother, come I will offer you a good price). I was still trying to take in this cultural discovery when I heard another woman across the road exchanging pleasantries with a customer I presumed was from Nigeria, saying “Ekabo o!”- the Yoruba word for welcome. Kwame was right after all.

On my way back to the hotel, I sought to change the few dollars in my wallet but changed my mind after the taxi driver informed me I could change my Naira into Cedi, Ghana’s legal tender. However, when I discovered that my N10,000 could only give me a miserly 198 Cedi, I simply jettisoned the idea and beckoned on the taxi driver to take me to my hotel room to quickly catch a nap.

Though a brief visit, it nonetheless offered an ample experience of the hustle and bustle of Accra, a city so captivating in its simplicity.Okeke is of the Corporate Communications Division Nigerian Export Promotion Council Abuja.